As these old tube electronics often have near-impossible to replace transformers, this is really another risk you shouldn’t take. A while ago, i recapped 2 CD32, 1 A600, 2 A1200s for exactly the same reason. And if you’re unlucky, the electrolyte already went under ICs, creates shorts, etched away PCB traces and – even harder to find – through holes. I’ve ran 500s and 1200s (and the 600 is in many ways the same build as the 1200) for god knows how many years, and not once, ever, did I experience or hear about a cap problem on any of them or their PSUs. Older Amigas use the older through-hole capacitors, which by contrast are a more mature technology, and onthe rare occasion when they do leak, they leak through the pressure relief safety cap on the top of the part, far away from the delicate PCB traces. :-(. There is compassion, love, science, understanding, but people spend most of their life - if not all of it - in greedy bellicose hunger, hating, believing in ghosts (holy or otherwise), and missing the - equally valid - other guy's perspective. A capacitor is a passive two-terminal electronic component that stores electrical energy in an electric field. I’ve had these come to me with failed floppy drives due to the capacitors leaking and damaging the PCB and have managed to repair the drive rather than replacing it, and the CDTV remote control has a SMT capacitor in it too that can leak. Fujicon. With the ugly green sheathing, I'd say they were either Teapo, G-Luxon or SamXon capacitors, but I see a hint of a name that's neither, so it's probably some other wofat garbo. My 34 year old A1000 and the A2000 run great without issue. If your soldering skills (or tools) are basic or mediocre, I would not recommend re-working boards like these. No ripple on dc rail. –linear supplies The following brands are associated with the recent (1998-200x) incorrect electrolyte formulation problem (a.k.a. They don’t look like the typical off-brand types though (violet color, not black or green.) Just because later cheaply made electrolytics are a plague to electronics, it doesn’t mean the stuff from the 70s and 80s are problematic and unreliable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72sJ5Infuu0 lelisme inter-linguae', Larreu derrota els espanyols al Río de la Plata, Astilleros Carabela - Nick Kenyeres - Mike Dacosta. It basically happened, when a company stole the chemical formula for the electrolyte; only that they missed a key ingredient. Since I wrote this post, I have noticed what seems to be evidence of capacitors beginning to fail in my Sony PVM RGB display. Fou el Compromís de Casp i els vots o les Bombardes? I would like to continue on as I have always done, using these systems as-is with the plan of replacing capacitors on a given system in the future, as they inevitably fail. -tantalum Some re-cap situations are a balancing act between possible damage from failed caps vs. possible damage from the replacement job. However, there is something else that might prove to be a problem for equipment from that era and that is smaller (in both size and capacity) decoupling capacitors with rubber seals. Many people think their 40 year old boards will still run perfectly if they are kept unused in storage 35 years, and if they don’t: that they are beyond all repair. A notable capacitor, are the Rifa safety capacitors made from a paper dielectric. That would be true for the Chinese designed no name brands. If I’m repairing or restoring a machine for sale, I’m likely to replace some caps “preemptively” because I assume the owner is unlikely to ever check for leakage. Often, you don’t see the problem with them at a first glance, but there are hints. #todayInTheByteCellar I spent 3 hours looking for an SD card full of A8 software. But what are A-brand caps? Anyways, the affected caps are 6.3 v 2200 uF, 16 v 1500 uF, and 6.3 v 1800 uF. Well. Water-based electrolytes, with up to 70% water, are relatively inexpensive and boast desirable characteristics such as low ESR and higher voltage handling. Yup: https://www.badcaps.net/index.php?s=6b9a4f770b9723109ba7fec9b0b1674c&pageid=causes. That’s pretty terrible advice. I would also suspect that many PC motherboards in the early SMT days suffered similar fates (this is different to the capacitor plague of the early ’00s), but they were all replaced long before it was an issue. Windows … I’ve never come across a failed capacitor in Amigas (other than those which were fitted backwards in the CD32, but that’s a different story…), though I’ve repaired various other equipment that malfunctioned due to through-hole capacitors failing. —capacitors in high current deflection circuitry are prone to failing, sometimes spectacularly posted 2016-Feb-20, 11:08 am AEST Any Japanese brands you chaps could … A month prior I services 3 more Samsung monitors this very way. I’m into vintage computing myself but not in a very structured way. By going bad I mean obvious bulges although I don’t recall any electrolyte release. but as soon as I touched the IDE cable, you could hear the pins of the IDE connector crunching and crackling beneath the cable, and a gentle pull resulted in most of the pins coming straight off. The power supply that is the same age as the rest of the computer (around 30 years) had all its electrolytics in good shape, good ESR slightly (maybe 10%) under capacity and it didn’t play any role in the failure of the tantalums because the -12v rail was linearly regulated (with a 7912). I’d just like to emphasize what I think is the main takeaway from this: I’ve rarely seen capacitors in linear PSUs and generally low stress environments fail. The lifetime of these caps is highly dependent on temperature, since higher temps can cause the electrolyte to evaporate faster. When ceramic capacitors crack, they can short out. GL. And replace all of them, even if some look still clean, they will follow soon. There are generally two types, however. —In my experience, failure is rare without design flaw (capacitor near hot heatsink, for example) In these cases, the PCB was never seriously damaged due to how these capacitors fail. Part 4: summary of failure modes (re-posted because formatting died in the first one), -Electrolytic capacitors Same goes for old batteries, like the small ni-cads that were common for keeping RTCs and SRAMs alive in various systems. After doing a bit of research I found that the problem was most likely the "capacitor plague" which affected millions of capacitors made about ten years ago and used by many companies in all sorts of devices from vacuum cleaners to computers, and the typical symptom is capacitors exploding well before their normal lifespan and well within their specified voltage. If you need recapping service, let me know. Some Macs have dipped disc type which are fine, All “compact” thru-hole electrolytics are leaking, basically SMT type with leads, smaller than the typical t-h electrolytic of the same ratings would be. That said, I’ve some personal experiences to add to the excellent explanation by Joe Zatarski. Handbook of Inorganic Chemicals. To remedy this, they make special ‘soft termination’ capacitors that are less susceptible to this issue, but tend to cost more. Switched-mode power supply-Wikipedia. I'm good with electronics and soldering so Im going to try replacing them. Final thoughts. Second, one has to make a risk vs. benefit analysis, as written by Josh. Every capacitor has an intrinsic loss, and this is often expressed as an ESR. I have seen that as well, but didn’t think of it when writing the posts. Wikipedia refers to the "capacitor plague" - and though it does seem to have gone into remittance now, Chris Passalacqua, owner of Badcaps, suggests, "They didn't discover this until it … And I will say that in a default capacitor variety pack an 820uf capacitor is not all that common, especially at 25v) So what does any good tech do? Of the 9 TiVo HD's that I recently worked on during my most recent PROM Day, 3 of them had distended or failed capacitors. It’s been quite a while since I owned my last A1200, but observing from a distance, that seems to be the case. The problem is mainly the first generation, for 1989 to 1992, replace all of them, up to 1995, have a very close look, you might have lots of work ahead. Watch these videos to see real examples: Over the years, there have been massive quantities of name-brand, high quality motherboards failing prematurely due to these faulty electrolytic capacitors used in their manufacturing process. In my experience repairing machines and talking with those who repair them, there are some known replace-on-sight caps. But it’s a little bit more complicated. The capacitor plague was a problem related to a higher-than-expected failure rate of non-solid aluminum electrolytic capacitors, between 1999 and 2007, especially those from some Taiwanese manufacturers, due to faulty electrolyte composition that caused corrosion accompanied by gas generation, often rupturing the case of the capacitor from the build-up of pressure. Basically your argument (my name happens to be Chris, too), amounts to “don’t look both ways before crossing the street because your peripheral vision should work just fine!” or more literally “don’t waste your 50 cents replace all those capacitors!”. For use in SMPS, special low-ESR capacitor types have become popular in the past few decades to reduce this loss and allow capacitors to take more ripple current without shortening the life of the capacitor. … ( see also The Capacitor plague ). \$\endgroup\$ – hacktastical May 15 at 17:02 \$\begingroup\$ Thanks! holl_ands covered this point. –also generally robust in terms of aging From my personal encounters this includes the Epson HX20/PX4,8 computers and their accessories, TRS80-100 series, Apple Newton 100, Amstrad NC-100 among others, Only encountered a few tantalum shorts, from the 80s (orange tear drops). As such, much of the discussion being had in the message bases is in the form of help / advice requests posted by people with ailing systems of yore and replies by those offering up helpful suggestions. the infamous 68k Macs, I’ve had one Mac Classic with this exact same problem, and also a friend working in a another service shop told me he was replacing hundreds of small 1uF capacitors in camcorders in the late 1990s – early 2000s. People come to me with what’s perceived as a simple fault (“it loads games but the colours are funny”, “it works but the audio is crackly/only works on one speaker”, “it’s fine except the mouse doesn’t work”), expecting a simple recap to fix the issue, but instead finding that the entire video output stage has to be reconstructed with copper foil, wire, epoxy and many hours of labour. Vent, often accompanied with visible crusty rust-like brown or red dried electrolyte deposits capacitor, are nearly. 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